The wines of Domaine Eric Thill

Domaine Eric Thill is a small family estate in the south of the French Jura, some 45 kilometres south of Arbois. It is run by Eric and Bérengère Thill, a couple from Alsace who settled in the Jura to build a winery of their own. They work biodynamically and vinify each plot separately. They make both fresh wines that show the character of the grape and the typical specialities of the Jura, including Vin Jaune.

Eric Thill comes from a winegrowing family in Alsace and grew up at the foot of the Schlossberg, one of the region's well-known grand cru slopes. In Alsace, however, it was not possible for him to start a winery of his own. So in 2007 he and his wife Bérengère moved to the Jura, where they started from scratch. In 2009 they founded their domaine with a plot of about 2.8 hectares they had bought. Since then the estate has grown steadily to some 5 to 7 hectares. Production is around 20,000 bottles a year.

According to Eric, their Alsace background influences his work in the vineyard and in the cellar. As in Alsace, he prefers to work with a single grape variety per wine rather than with blends. Sustainability is central: in the vineyard he tries to use as little fossil fuel as possible. The estate also uses lightweight 395-gram bottles instead of the usual 600 grams, to reduce the CO2 emissions from transport.

Eric and Bérengère live in the small village of Trenal, in the south of the Côtes du Jura appellation. Their vineyards are in nearby Gevingey, close to the border with Saône-et-Loire, the southern part of Burgundy. The plots lie close to the woods, which brings a great diversity of plants and animals and a microclimate of its own. The vineyards have been farmed organically since they were planted and are certified organic. Eric and Bérengère work them using biodynamic methods. The soils are very varied: from limestone to the famous grey, red and blue marls the Jura is known for. Because Eric vinifies each plot separately, those differences come through clearly in the wines.

The vineyards of Domaine Eric Thill are planted with the traditional grapes of the Jura. The most important is Chardonnay, with just over 3 hectares. There is also about 1 hectare of Savagnin, plus smaller plots of the red Poulsard and Pinot Noir.

In the cellar Eric uses no synthetic products. The wines ferment spontaneously with wild yeasts, and as little sulphite as possible is used. The white grapes are pressed long and gently, without any significant skin maceration. For the red wines, the length of maceration depends on the vintage. The estate makes two kinds of wine. The first are the fresh, non-oxidative, floral wines that show the character of the grape. These include several Chardonnays, a blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin, and a light, juicy Poulsard. The Cuvée Romane, named after the couple's daughter, also belongs here: a Savagnin that does not go through malolactic fermentation, so it keeps its freshness.

Domaine Eric Thill also makes the typical specialities of the Jura: oxidative wines from Chardonnay and Savagnin, and a Vin Jaune, the famous yellow wine made from Savagnin, which matures for more than six years in barrel under a layer of yeast without being topped up. Finally, there is Macvin du Jura and a sparkling wine, both made from Chardonnay.