The wines of Domaine M. & S. Bouchet

Domaine M. & S. Bouchet is a small family estate in Montreuil-Bellay, some 15 kilometres south of Saumur in the Loire Valley. It is run by Matthieu and Sylvanie Bouchet, who make biodynamic wines from old vines of Cabernet Franc, Chenin Blanc and Grolleau. The estate holds a special place in the history of biodynamic winegrowing: it has been farmed biodynamically since 1962, longer than almost any other wine estate in France.

The history of the estate is inextricably linked with François Bouchet, Matthieu's father. He was one of the pioneers of biodynamic winegrowing in France. As early as 1962 he began experimenting with biodynamic methods in his own vineyards. François became an authority in the field. He wrote several reference works on applying biodynamic principles in the vineyard and advised countless wineries, including famous names such as Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leroy in Burgundy.

In 1990 Matthieu and Sylvanie took over the family estate. They decided to continue François's biodynamic approach. Since 2008 Matthieu and Sylvanie have sold their wines as Vin de France rather than under the Saumur appellation. This gives them the freedom to make their wines as they wish, without having to follow the rules of the appellation.

Domaine M. & S. Bouchet lies in the far south-east of the Maine-et-Loire department, in the southern part of the Saumur area. The estate covers about 6 hectares. The climate is temperate and maritime, and the proximity of the Loire helps prevent large temperature swings, so the grapes can ripen slowly and evenly.

The soil consists of clay and limestone, with a layer of hard limestone in the subsoil. The vines are among the oldest in the area: some are more than eighty years old and naturally give low yields. Three grapes are grown: Cabernet Franc, the main red grape of the Saumur area, the white Chenin Blanc, and Grolleau, a traditional red Loire grape that gives lighter, aromatic wines.

The grapes are picked by hand and vinified and bottled in the estate's own cellars. These cellars are carved out of tuffeau, the soft, pale limestone from which the Loire châteaux were also built. The wines mature there in oak barrels, quietly and for as long as they need.

The range is small. Le Sylphe is an old-vine Cabernet Franc: a classic, structured wine with plenty of character. Fleur Bleue is made from Grolleau and is lighter and fruitier. Le P’tit Bouchet is an approachable Cabernet Franc. The Blanc de Chenin, the only white wine, is a full, creamy Chenin Blanc.

If you want to know more about this winery, here you will find the link to the website of Domaine M. & S. Bouchet.