Portuguese wine, from Madeira to Vinho Verde

Portuguese wine is food for vinologists. Because Portugal is developing rapidly as a leading wine country, but it mainly holds on to its own grape varieties and knows how to distinguish itself with them. The old cooperatives have been closed down. More than a thousand Quintas press modern Portuguese wines from the grapes from their own, ancient vineyards. They make everything from Port and Madeira to crisp Vinho Verde and wines from Talhas.

The great change in the quality of Portuguese wine came when Portugal joined the EU in 1986. The monopolies of umbrella, old-fashioned wine companies were broken up. Investment in vineyards and making wine themselves was encouraged. Passionate Portuguese winemakers seized their chance. The number of Quintas that make their own wines has increased from a handful to well over a thousand. And they do much better than the cooperatives.

The Douro, Alentejo and Beiras

Two regions that beautifully illustrate the rapid development of Portuguese wine growing are the Douro Valley, Alentejo and Beiras. Not so long ago, grapes were only picked for sweet Port in the Douro. The wineries in the Douro have been modernised rapidly in recent years. And they have started experimenting. More and more Quintas are making dry red quality wines in addition to Port. The reds are firm and spicy but with fine soft tannins. Many white wines from the Douro valley are fresh and tight.

The Portuguese wine region Alentejo is sometimes called the 'California of Portugal'. Alentejo is large, hot and progressive. Several top winemakers have thrown themselves into the old, forgotten vineyards. They make real 'terroir wines' in all kinds of styles but again mainly from local grape varieties.

Less known but no less interesting is the Beiras region, with the districts of Dão and Biarrada. In Dão, on steep slopes of the river of the same name, beautiful dry red Portuguese wines are made that can often be stored for decades without losing their complexity. Beiras mainly revolves around the Baga grape. A powerful red grape with considerable acidity and spicy tannins that the winemakers soften with modern vinification techniques and by blending with other grapes.

500 indigenous Portuguese grape varieties

Portuguese winemakers have the great luxury of being able to choose from more than 500 indigenous grape varieties. They do not have to compete with Chile or South Africa. They have their own Arinto, Antão Vaz, Touriga Nacional, Loureiro, Alvarinho, Baga, Treixadura and so on. This allows them to make unique wines. For enthusiasts, there is much new to discover in Portuguese wine.